Sunday, November 22, 2015

Huli Tovve - can't get any more homely or traditional than this

I had every plan of writing my post last weekend as usual and then Friday the 13th happened. I just didn't have the heart to celebrate food in the wake of such violence and spent the weekend away from all electronics. What would it take to stop this senseless violence and live a life of harmony? What would it take to provide loving homes to countless children around the world that are uprooted from the homes they knew of? Acts of love are always pure and can start small in our own little neighborhoods and they do not need to be associated with any specific group or religion. Hope the world finds the love and peace we all seek so fervently. Here is to leaving behind a more loving, respectful world around us.
I forget what it was all about but recently a friend of mine had posted the question on FB asking 'what is home'? and as with fb responses there were a multitude of opinions ranging from parents to siblings to music to love to food and other things (both materialistic and non materialistic) that brought a feeling of home. As I reflect on that question I think the closest I would come to a cozy home feeling inevitably will have something to do with food :-). A happy crowd of people around the dining table eating healthy, home cooked food has an appeal to me that is rarely surpassed by other things in this world. Maybe I am not the only one that relates food with love, relationship, comfort, safety, care, taste and ultimately home?

The other day, I sent a package of uppittu mix and pongal mix to DD. She has a small rice cooker and it would be easy for her to just measure a cup of the mix and pour in the water, switch it on before she heads out to classes. The hot stuff would be ready and waiting when she gets back to the room. While she mostly eats at her cafeteria, she sometimes needs the taste of home just to ground things back. I didn't really pay a lot of attention when she called up to say it was the best uppittu she ever had but then realized that more than the taste it was probably the connection it made to the kitchen back home. She has not been a fan of eating uppittu while at home :-) but now not only is enjoying it herself but also is sharing it with a few of her floor mates who seem to be happily eating it too.
She will be home in 2 days and I already have instructions on what she wants to eat and what should not be on the menu for those 4 days (Cheese, tofu, pasta, pizza..) :-). She is well on her way to connecting love of home with comforting food among other things.

November is the month of 'giving thanks' and the markets are already flooded with the seasonal colors of yellow and orange. The carving pumpkins of the Halloween have made way for the orange hued pie pumpkins as we near Thanksgiving celebrations. I love pumpkins as they are some of the easiest vegetables to cook and also are very versatile in nature. From warm, toasted fragrant breads to hot, spicy idlis to crispy, kurkure cutlets to soul warming soups, pumpkins can stand up to any treatment and impart their subtle, yet tasty flavors in each of these recipes. Pumpkins in India are grown easily at homes and harvested on a regular basis.
I picked up a small pumpkin the other day and as I cut it open, I was transported back to an occasion many years back. The color of the pumpkin brought up memories of a wedding where I was the star (well, one of the stars atleast) and was getting ready to embrace a new life. Ours was a simple wedding, the ceremony was very personal and limited to immediate and extended family on both sides, wedding took place in my parent's home and the lunch was served under a covered shamiana on the roof top with a view of the majestic Chamundi hills in Mysore. My new family was not entirely familiar with the Mysore style of food but enjoyed it a lot.

As newly weds, we were required to share a plate for lunch that day and my bridegroom made sure he called dibs on all the favorites in the shared plate before I even looked up to see what was being served :-). The love story was just made stronger with him accepting and enjoying the world I came from. It has been many years and we continue sharing on both sides and the love seems to grow more as we do it. Of all the things served on the plate that day, the one dish that he fell in love with was this Huli tovve (also called bisi kootu) that is served with white, fluffy cooked rice as the first course once the meal officially begins. He loves his dal, he loves his vegetables and he loves food cooked fresh and the huli tovve satisfied all 3 simple criteria.
As Oct is the month we celebrate our wedding, I thought of making the huli tovve for BH to see if the love (for the dish I mean :-)) still lingered through all these years. And when I served it for lunch, the gleam in the eye, the slurp of fingers were more than enough to confirm that the love story continued. A combination of this tovve, majjige huli and a side of ambode is the ultimate festive food and a sure ticket for sleep, something you have to experience atleast once :-). Knowing BH's simple tastes, I skipped the majjige huli and ambode and let him enjoy the huli tovve all by itself and it was a hit.

Despite the 'Huli (tangy)' in the name, this dish is not a sour gravy. It is very well balanced with tamarind, jaggery, salt and the highlight is the freshly roasted and ground spices. The consistency tends to be thicker than regular huli or sambar and is made on special occasions with different combinations of vegetables. There used to be a time a few years back when no wedding or auspicious ceremony in the Mysore region would miss this huli tovve, I am not so sure about it now as food during celebrations have become more continental now :-). See notes at the end for a list of vegetable combinations that work well in this dish.

What do you need to make Huli Tovve?
1/2 cup toor dal/tuvar dal/togari bele
1 fistful shelled peanuts
1/2 Tsp crushed jaggery or brown sugar
2 cups of cubed pumpkin
8-10 green beans
1 big carrot
1 Tsp salt (adjust to taste)
To roast and grind: 
1 Tbsp oil
1 Tbsp chana dal
1 Tbsp coriander seeds
1/2 Tsp Urad dal
1 Tsp black pepper corns
2-3 dry red chilies (use Byadagi variety for a nice hue)
2 pieces of 1 inch cinnamon
2 cloves
small piece nutmeg (about 1/4 Tsp when grated)
2 pieces of mace
2 Tbsp shredded coconut
key lime size tamarind
1Tbsp oil
1 Tsp mustard
1/8 Tsp fenugreek seeds
few curry leaves
1-2 pieces of dry red chilies (optional)

How do you make Huli Tovve? 
  • Take tuvar dal and peanuts in a pressure cooker, wash them in running water. 
  • Add 2 cups of water, pinch of turmeric powder and cook until you get 4-5 whistles. 
  • Switch off and let cool. 
  • Heat a small pan and add all ingredients under 'To roast and grind' except for coconut and tamarind. 
  • Roast on medium heat stirring frequently for 2-3 minutes. 
  • Once the dals turn light pink and the spices are fragrant, add coconut and tamarind piece. Switch off and let cool. 
  • String the beans and break/cut them into 1.5 inch pieces. 
  • Peel the carrot and chop them into pieces of the same size as beans. 
  • In a sauce pan, add 2 cups of water, beans and carrot pieces along with 1/2 Tsp of salt. 
  • While the vegetables are cooking, peel and chop pumpkin into big bite sized pieces.
  • Once the beans and carrot have about 10 minutes of headstart, add the pumpkin pieces into the pan and let them cook for another 6-8 minutes or until the vegetables are fork tender. 
  • Grind all the roasted ingredients along with 1/2 cup water into a smooth paste. 
  • Open the cooker, mash the cooked dal with a whisk or blender. 
  • Pour the dal into the vegetables pot, add the ground masala paste and give a good mixture. 
  • Add the remaining salt and jaggery. Let it come to a gentle boil. 
  • Heat a small pan, add the seasoning ingredients and let mustard pop. 
  • Pour the seasoning into the tovve container, cover and switch off. 
  • Let it rest for 10 minutes before serving it with rice or roti.   
  • Typical vegetables and vegetable combinations used for huli tovve - Beans, carrots, ash gourd, pumpkin, ridge gourd. 
  • Do not use egg plant, okra or radish in this recipe
  • Pumkins and ash gourds cook very fast, give a head start to the beans and carrots to soften up before adding these vegetables to avoid mushy, disintegrated pieces. 
  • You can use dry coconut (Kobbari) or fresh grated coconut in this recipe. 
  • Do not use more than specified amount of nutmeg as it tends to over power other flavors. 
  • Peanuts cooked along with dal add a great taste to the gravy, if you are allergic to peanuts skip them. 


Sujatha Shankar said...

i love this dish....yum...but it never tastes like the one we eat in it bcoz i am skipping nut meg?

Nagashree Ravi said...

Sujatha, nutmeg is an essential component of the spice mix here. Try with it.

Sreemala said...

Love the stories behind your recipes Nagashree! Huli tovve has always been my favorite too and it's been long time since I made/ate, will do now, thanks for such a lovely story and recipe.

NamsVeni Pothas said...

wonderful dish with sweet memories. I am very glad